Why Thread Matters More Than You Think
It’s easy to assume “thread is thread,” but as our deep dive reveals, choosing the wrong thread can send your sewing projects sideways—much like building a house on a shaky foundation. A little extra know-how goes a long way toward creating strong seams and beautifully finished pieces.
“You might be thinking, thread, how complicated can it be? Well, you wouldn't believe how many sewing projects fail because of the wrong thread choice.”
– Excerpt from our podcast
Polyester: The Reliable All-Rounder
Most sewists reach for all-purpose polyester thread by default—and with good reason. It’s:
- Strong: Great for everyday sewing.
- Colourfast: Colours don’t fade easily (unless exposed to direct sunlight for a long time).
- Versatile: Works on a variety of fabrics.
Downside? Polyester thread doesn’t take dye well and can fade in direct sunlight. So if you’re dyeing fabric or crafting a project that will live outside (like a patio cushion), consider a different type.
Cotton: The Natural Choice (and the Perils of Thread Rot)
Cotton thread has a soft, natural feel, and it loves dye, making it a favourite for quilting and hand-dyed projects. However, vintage garments sometimes fall victim to “thread rot,” where cotton degrades over time due to age, exposure to light, or poor storage.
Mercerisation helps combat this. In this process, cotton fibres are treated to:
- Swell and straighten → making them smoother.
- Gain strength and lustre → resulting in less lint and easier flow through your machine.
“It's like giving the cotton thread a spa day—stronger, smoother, and shinier!”
Specialty Threads: Nylon, Linen, Silk & Metallic
Beyond cotton and polyester, there’s a whole world of specialty threads worth exploring:
- Nylon
- Strong, stretchy
- Perfect for upholstery, active-wear, and projects needing extra durability.
- Linen
- Naturally stiff, very strong
- Ideal for historical reproductions, hand sewing, and heirloom projects.
- Silk
- Luxurious, high lustre
- Fantastic for delicate garments, couture sewing, and projects where subtle colour variations or dyeing might be involved.
- Metallic
- Eye-catching sparkle
- Best for embellishments and embroidery where a little “wow factor” is desired.
Understanding Thread Weight: The Tex System
Thread weight is a key factor in ensuring your stitches look great and hold up over time. Two popular ways to measure thickness are Weight (wt) and Tex:
- Weight (“wt”) System
- Higher “wt” number = finer thread (e.g., 80 wt is finer than 50 wt).
- Lower “wt” number = thicker thread (e.g., 30 wt is thicker than 50 wt).
- Tex System
- Higher Tex = thicker thread (e.g., Tex 40 is thicker than Tex 27).
- Lower Tex = finer thread (e.g., Tex 15 is finer than Tex 27).
Quick Reference for Fabric Weights
- Lightweight Fabrics (e.g., chiffon, voile)
- Use a finer thread → around 50–80 wt or Tex 12–27.
- Prevents puckering and fabric damage.
- Heavyweight Fabrics (e.g., denim, canvas)
- Use a thicker thread → around 30–40 wt or Tex 40–60 (or more).
- Ensures strong seams to handle heavier wear and tear.
“Thread weight plays a huge role. The wrong weight can lead to weak seams, puckering—or even damage your sewing machine.”
Quality Matters
Long-staple fibres and treatments like mercerisation or glazing make a difference in:
- Reduced breakage
- Less lint
- Smoother stitching
While budget-friendly options can suffice for quick, low-stress projects, investing in higher-quality thread ensures longevity—especially for garments or quilts you want to stand the test of time.
Proper Storage = Longevity
Even the best thread won’t last if it’s stored poorly. To avoid thread rot and fading:
- Cool, Dry Place: Excess heat and humidity can weaken fibres.
- Away from Direct Sunlight: UV rays fade colours and weaken thread.
- Dust-Free Containers: Use thread boxes or repurposed craft organizers to keep spools tidy and protected.
Matching Thread to Fabric & Project
When deciding on a thread, factor in:
- Fabric Weight/Type:
- Lightweight fabric → finer thread
- Heavyweight fabric → thicker thread
- Project Use:
- Daily-wear garments? Go for strong, durable threads (poly or nylon).
- Delicate or luxury pieces? Silk or a high-quality cotton might be best.
- Aesthetic Goals:
- Decorative topstitching? Consider a contrast colour or thicker thread for visual impact.
- Seam blending? Choose a colour and weight that disappears into the fabric.
Pro Tip: Always test on a scrap of your fabric first. Adjust thread type, weight, and machine settings until you’re satisfied with the results.
Final Stitches: Keep Learning & Experimenting
From polyester to silk, from Tex 15 to Tex 40, the world of sewing thread is vast—but it doesn’t have to be intimidating. Use the guidelines above, take advantage of manufacturer charts, and don’t be afraid to experiment.
“Think of thread as the backbone of your creation. Invest time in choosing the right one, and your sewing dreams won’t crumble.”
Happy Sewing! If you have experiences or insights about particular thread brands, weights, or storage methods, we’d love to hear from you. Remember, the more you learn about thread, the more confident (and creative!) you’ll be in every stitch.
